Automobiles Hub tamer bearing removal assemble, let me reiterate to follow the manual to a tee, basically at this point there is an inner disk that is pushing on the inner large diameter bearing race. The pressure from tightening the pinch bolt moves the bearing outwards into the large diameter cup. Outer bolt on this is something like 1 1/8 inch. I did not have the right size socket so I just used an adjustable wrench to hold it while the impact wrench did its thing. The threads on the hub tamer pinch bolt are fine, so it took many turns to remove the bearing. I had to wait for my compressor to catch up at least twice during this part. I have a 22 gallon compressor. Bearing removed. Smile, now the fun begins. Basically reverse of bearing removal, follow hub tamer manual to press in the new bearing. This is the hub tamer pressing the hub into the bearing. This was the only real gotcha I had in the whole process. I gently tapped the hub to seat it in the bearing and my bearing came completely apart. Luckily the grease they use is uber viscosity, it actually looked like plastic so the bearings stayed completely intact when they fell out, I reassembled and did not tap it in this time. Also, make sure your hub is aligned in the bearing before using the impact wrench on it, I suggest tightening it up by hand to get it snug and aligned. The other caveat I had was the piece they tell you to use to press the hub into the bearing with fits over the hub. This is great to keep it aligned but it was tight, so tight that I had to rig up the puller they gave you in the hub tamer kit to remove it. In the process I partially pulled the hub back out. So I reversed it and tried again, this worked well. Reassembly after the hub is back together: Put your upper control arms back in, slide the bolt through and use the new nut supplied in your bearing kit. Tighten to 30 ft/lbs. In the process of using the hub tamer, I nicked the inside of the hub so I could not just hand press the axle back into the hub. After a few iterations, I was able to get the axle in just far enough to thread the old axle bolt to pull it in, I wrenched it tight, and removed the old axle bolt then put the new one in. Tighten the new axle bolt to 85 ft/lbs, do not put your axle wrenches away yet, final torque comes with the wheels all back on the ground. Put your disc back on, caliper hangar, caliper, and wheel. Tighten your wheel bolts to specs, 89 ft/lbs. Drop the car. Now find a 4 foot extension for your breaker bar, you need to turn the axle bolt 180 degrees once the wheels are all down. When doing the final tightening of the axle bolt, make sure the hex socket is ALL the way in the bolt. I stand with my leg pressing the breaker bar assembly while I tighten the bolt to keep the socket pressed in. The bolt I got in my kit was softer then the Audi supplied bolt I got in my CV boot kit, just an FYI. Other notes: I did hand spin the old and new bearings in the car for comparison, the old bearing clearly felt jagged, and when I looked at the actual bearings that fell out, they were discolor to the point they were golden. Fresh bearings are silver. Special Thanks to wifey for taking the pictures. Take your quiet car for a ride. Hope this helps someone out there. I am sure that with similar suspensions this process will work on most of the later model Audis with a bit of modification here and there. Email me with any questions. Job took about 3 hours which included 30 minutes out and back to the shop that got the bearing race off. Find out more about wheel hub bearing China manufacturer by visit daybec.com. About the Author: 相关的主题文章: